Review of 'Sardi's'

Item: Sardi's
Rating: 4
Author: Stephen Rice

On my original visit to New York in 2001 I paid a visit to this iconic Broadway restaurant that has served continental cuisine to the stars of the stage since 1958. Less than a block from Times Square, Sardi's is well known for the hundreds of caricatures of their famous patrons adorning the walls, often found near to where the stars like to sit (but otherwise the portraits are moved around regularly). But it is not only this quirky interior that attracts it is also the wonderful food and tremendous service. When I returned to New York this year I was determined to return and sample some more of their delights.

Thankfully, we did not have any problems getting a pre-theatre reservation on-line the day of our visit. We were seated in the far back corner which allowed us to appreciate the space, taking it all in. The simple interior has walls only decorated with the portraits. The white linen tables have dark red velvet seats that give the single room quite an elegant air but it is there the elegance stops with the ceiling missing tiles and otherwise unappealing.

The short menu features “Sardi's Traditions” with all dishes available in main or appetiser portions (a “prix fix” menu is also available for $62) as well as the normal sections: appetisers, main courses, sandwiches and desserts (of course there is also an extensive drink menu). After ordering a waiter appeared with an assortment of fresh, sliced bread and butter which were absolutely delicious (we had him return several times throughout our visit).

I began the meal with the “Soup of the Day” ($12) which was “Asparagus Soup” with huge crunchy croutons and creme fraiche. Absolutely delicious, delicate and creamy. A subtle flavour but very heart-warming.

My companion was pleased with her starter of a “Baby Spinach Salad” ($18.50) with a lovely, light warm bacon Sherry vinaigrette dressing.

For our mains I had to go for one of the “Sardi's Traditions” so I settled on the “Cannelloni au Gratin” (“A combination of beef, veal, and pork flavoured with Porcini mushrooms rolled in a French crepe with Supreme Sauce”; $27.75 or $18 as an appetiser). This was also extremely tasty and rich - A copious amount of the velvety “Supreme” sauce enveloping the delicious cannelloni. The cannelloni itself was smooth, crammed with a wonderfully meaty interior. I can't say I would want a larger portion…

My companion had the “Lasagne with Ragu Bolognese” (“made with veal, beef and pork”; $28) which was a rather large portion but she managed to eat it all…again, deliciously rich and decadent.

Though satisfied with the meal so far, and pretty full by this point, we were convinced to give dessert a try. I had “Sardi's Frozen Cake” (“made with vanilla ice cream and raspberry sorbet, toasted coconut shavings and served with Zabaglione and chocolate sauce”; $12). Again, another rich dish with two side dishes containing chocolate and strawberry sauces

My companion had the “Boccone Dolce” (“A Sardi's special! This 'sweet mouthful' is made with meringue, fresh strawberries, whipped cream and a touch of chocolate”; $14) which was quite good but really a bit too rich.

The service throughout was friendly, if a bit abrupt, though they were happy to discus the pictures on the walls, pointing out a few better known figures when asked. The total, without tip but including drinks, came to just over $140 which is a bit pricey but for the quality of the food we received we were quite happy indeed.