Tuesday, March 26, 2024

The new hotel is not quite as interesting as the one in Tokyo. No robots here but it is nice and very centrally located, only a few stops on the subway station from Kyoto station then, after a flight of steps, it is a walk of a few short blocks. This time I opted for a more western hotel, an “Ibis Styles”, for its central location which provides ease of access to transport and walking distance to many of the city attractions such as the Gion (geisha) district.

The morning started early again with 8 am breakfast. For some reason no matter how early we are, it is always busy. Of course it doesn’t help that the dining area is so small and the fact it is free means there are always people there.

It was raining heavily in Tokyo when we checked out. I used the machines near the robots, ignoring them completely, to check out with my credit card. We avoided much of the rain by sticking close to the buildings as we headed left out of the hotel to an elevator that I noticed the other day takes you from the street into the subway station. Unfortunately, the subway line did not take us right to Tokyo station but rather to Yūrakuchō station which meant we had to walk through the “Tokyo International Forum” building - which looks like a convention centre - then outside past the bus terminal before we entered “Tokyo Station” itself. Of course we were trying to keep dry particularly as we had all of our luggage with us which, by now, has become a bit heavier with the souvenirs and snacks we now carry. I was quite annoyed because we could not have got any closer to “Tokyo Station” but somehow had become confused with the directions. It is easy to become flustered in times like this though we did find some amusement with Mel buying a small dog toy from a bank of “Gacha” (plastic ball) machines and we also managed to get some more cash (30,000 yen plus 220 service fee) and topped up our SUICA cards (4,000 yen) at a 7-11.

At the station there were screens that showed us what platform our 11:33 train to Kyoto left on. This is the day our 7 day JR rail passes begin. We can take as many trains as we like for free over the next week. We had already picked up our travel tickets the other day so I put my ticket through the machine but Mel had no such luck and had to talk to an attendant who explained something I had not realised. We had to use our JR Rail pass “tickets” to go through the gates. The “tickets” we had for the train were nothing of the sort, they were just seat reservations. The JR Rail pass allows us to take whatever train we want with the seat reservation just needed to make sure we get a seat (there are non-reserved carriages on the train but, of course, there is no guarantee you will get a seat so they recommend making seat reservations). It was handy though to have the seat reservations as they told us the details of the train we wanted to catch.

We walked through the station to the “Shinkansen” (bullet train) platforms which were clearly marked where we had to use our JR rail pass ticket yet again to enter. Double checking our platform we made our way there to find a large number of people waiting on the platform. This was eased somewhat when an earlier train left, taking with it many people. The platforms clearly show you where to wait for specific carriages on the train so we made our way to where it said our car would stop, dropping our bags to wait 35 minutes for our train.

Mel entertained herself with one of the drink machines on the platform (yes, there were lots of machines there including one that served Basken Robbins ice cream buckets) which served “Shinkansen” coffee. It was covered with buttons but the unique thing about this one is that it had a video screen which showed you your coffee being prepared from grinding the beans, brewing the drink to filing and depositing the cup (and played a nice tune at the same time). She had to give this a try. Shame the coffee was not great (this seems to be an on-going theme of the coffee here in Tokyo).

I had been a bit worried about the luggage situation as we had been informed that if we had luggage of a certain size we needed to book a spot in the luggage area of our car which we had not done. As it turns out we had ample space in the racks above our seats and, indeed, around our feet but others on the train had massive pieces that they ended up piling into the reserved area (hoping they had a reservation) or simply draping their legs over the luggage in front of their seat. Did not look terribly comfortable.

The trip was pretty uneventful with the rainy weather meaning we did not see Mount Fuji despite sitting on the right hand side of the train (where you can normally see it). The landscape on the train between Tokyo and Kyoto is pretty much: Long, flat plains full of houses or farms interspersed by brief trips through a small mountain range often via tunnels. The houses you could never mistake for being anywhere but in Japan with their large shallow pitched roofs, quite well maintained and often grey or beige in colour. The train was stopped first at Nagoya, which is quite close to Kyoto, then all stops between Nagoya and Kyoto. A 2 hour and 45 minute trip.

It was busy at Kyoto station when we arrived. We had to transfer to the Karasuma subway line to Shijo station. Unfortunately, our JR Rail pass cannot be used for the Kyoto subway so we had to resort to using our “SUICA” cards which we have been regularly keeping topped up now we know how to do that (from pretty much any convenience store). When we got to Shijo station we had to walk to the far end of the station (underground) for the exit closest to our hotel which was quite a walk and there were a few stairs there making the suitcases a bit awkward.

Leaving Shijo station we emerged in the middle of the shopping district of Kyoto at a busy intersection. On the way to our hotel we passed by some modern office buildings then crossed a small street where two old cigarette machines sat outside a small smoking shop on the street.

Here the pavement narrowed and we continued towards the hotel passing a few more small shops, restaurants and a couple of roads. The hotel is tucked away a short distance from the street with a sign you could easily miss (Mr. Google helped make sure we were in the precise location). It is accessed along a covered walkway leading from the road which is nicely decorated with plants and bamboo fences. The lobby is decorated pleasantly, if perhaps a little dated, but it has a nice traditional Japanese stone garden behind the reception desk. We could not mistake it being an Ibis with the familiar logo assuring us we were in the right place. They took our passport and various details before providing us with our room keys.

We are in room 1021 which has not terribly good views out the window and the television does not support streaming of Netflix so we will miss that and have to settle with watching Japanese shows from now on. Like our room in Tokyo, the bed pretty much dominates the main room with only a narrow space between the end of the bed and the wall. There is a small desk here as well as a side table and bar fridge but that is about it for furniture. The bathroom is much more modern than the one in Tokyo complete with the electric toilet which Mel keenly noted. As in Tokyo we have been provided with night clothes which makes things easier as far as laundry is concerned. Here we also have sandals to wear…well, I guess around the room? Two bottles of water were a very nice touch as well.

On our floor is a “lounge” area looking for all the world like something out of a 60s film with “bubble seats” and white plastic everywhere. They even have a small (1 foot by 1 foot) “zen garden” if we fancied moving some sand around.

I am actually quite familiar with the street the hotel is on. It travels east and west through the middle of the city. On both ends you find mountains that surround the city. Obviously we wanted to get out and explore where we are so we headed east which is closest to the mountains and also, I knew, where one of the biggest temples in the city is located. Much of the pavement along the way is covered and they play classical music so it is quite pleasant.

This section of the city is all shopping with fast food restaurants and international chains (to our surprise there is a Wendy’s restaurant here which is one of Mel’s favourites from Canada). We passed by one of the many shopping arcades here - A normal street completely pedestrianised and covered, filled with shops and restaurants.

The shops here are a bit easier to take than in Tokyo. The signs are not as big, the shops are smaller and people do not seem to be in so much of a hurry. Not speaking Japanese is not a huge problem with enough English used so you can get around.

There was a store specialising in the adoption of puppies and kittens with a cute display of them in the window. Mel spent some time watching the youngsters run around and play. The shop makes it clear the animals for adoption by local people only.

As we headed further east, before we crossed the river we passed by the narrow alleyway of Kashiwayacho which runs behind a series of restaurants and hotels that line the river. I remember this alley from previous visits, recalling that many of the restaurants are extraordinarily expensive.

We passed over the Shijoo bridge across the Kamo River and into the Gion district - where the geisha’s live. The river has a narrow path on either side which people use in preference to walking on the street or as a break with seats and lawns where you can relax.

The first large building on the south side of the road in Gion is the Minamiza Theater where you can see traditional Kabuki and Japanese cultural shows but after that the shops here are much nicer than those we had passed earlier, selling much more expensive items such as fine candies, clothing and art.

Here too there is a covered walkway to protect shoppers from the elements.

Of course, Mel was excited to spot a few “Maiko” or apprentice Geisha going about their business, quickly getting out of public view in their colourful, but simple kimonos. There is an issue now in Gion where there are so many tourists coming to see the Geisha that they are talking about charging admission or gating the area to give them their privacy. They already have a number of signs up that request that pictures not be taken.

We continued to the end of the road to the orange and green painted Yasaka Shrine which we accessed by first crossing a very busy, and wide road.

The shrine, being one of the biggest and most central in the city, was quite busy and today they had stalls set up, of course, for the festival season like we saw in Tokyo. As with the temple in Tokyo they were selling all manner of Japanese fast food, yes, including my favourite Takoyaki.

We were not here for the food but rather to see the temple so we passed by the stalls into the main temple complex itself which consists of a large temple with three long ropes hanging outside that you yank to ring bells attached to their top for good luck. The temple is surrounded by trees and the mountains are only a short distance away so it is a pretty setting. We wandered around looking at the surrounding buildings, gates and small shrines. It looks quite modern and is spotlessly kept despite the huge number of visitors they must receive. Thankfully the rain had stopped and the sun had come out so were able to wander around in comfort.

Passing through the temple complex we ended up at Maruyama Park Japanese Gardens which this time of year was quite barren and had yet more of the festive food stalls. It was still nice to take in the scenery with a traditional (ok, concrete) Japanese bridge over a small pond. It must be gorgeous when the leaves and flowers are out. Right now it is full of the brown twigs of trees just waking up from their winter sleep the only green coming from the ornamental evergreens.

Off to the side of the park is one of the temples a short distance the end of the famous Kyoto “Philosopher’s Walk” (well, it is on the same path) Chion-in Temple but it was closed by the time we got there at 4:30 pm. Hopefully we will be able to get back at some point as there is a huge complex here with many things to see (yes, there is an admission charge for the site).

Making our way back though the Yasaka Shrine we noted a crowd off to the side so we went over to see what was going on: A lone cherry blossom tree had defined all its neighbours and gone into a bit of a bloom. An obvious freak of nature.

Back on the main road through Gion we stopped in the “Japan Kanji Museum & Library” which had a nice (free) display of the tall floats used in various Kyoto festivals. The small shop there also had lots of language training materials and some amazingly delicate looking gifts made out of wood and paper.

We had to walk into a Geisha district so we turned left into Hanamikoji-dori which is largely pedestrianised and lined with traditional Japanese buildings, many made of wood. A policeman was there that seemed to be either stopping us from taking pictures (which seemed to only apply to the side streets, not this one) or controlling traffic. It was not quite clear but he was quite determined to get whatever his point was across (obviously unsuccessfully).

We walked down some of the narrow and winding side streets with only the occasional glimpse of kimono but mostly it was a normal sort of residential area with the occasional shrine, restaurant or sign announcing the (Geisha) house.

Leaving Gion we returned across the river and explored one of the side shopping arcades, stopping at a shrine inside of one of them that was lined with traditional Japanese (illuminated) lanterns.

While passing a “Lindt” shop we noticed they had something special in the window: “Sakura” flavoured chocolate which sounded, well, interesting (?) so we ended up picking up a small bag from their “Pick and Mix” of the individually wrapped Lindt chocolate balls (1,512 yen).

We had worked up an appetite and I had one destination in mind when we passed it earlier in the day a few streets from the hotel: Yoshinoya. This is a famous Japanese chain that specializes in gyūdon (“beef bowl”) - Shaved meat in a tasty sauce on top of rice. This tiny restaurant consisted of a counter surrounding the serving staff with bar seats around the outside. Fancy it is not but it is a quintessential (modern) Japanese experience. I had their standard gyūdon which comes with a side bowl of rice and a raw egg (to put over the meat) while Mel had a version covered with shredded cheese. We were largely ignored by the other diners. This is an eating place, not a socialising place which was fine by us. We paid the server on the way out by presenting the piece of paper given to us with our order.

As we got back to the hotel it was close to 7 pm and the rain had started up again. Perfect timing.

Prize find of the day: Takoyaki flavoured Pringles.

>> Next: Day 12