Sunday, March 31, 2024

I have had difficulty in Japan finding breakfast ever since I first visited with my mother and we stayed in a ryokan (traditional inn) here in Kyoto, about half a mile north from the hotel Mel & I are now staying in, so, not terribly central. Breakfast was not included with our room so we had to find somewhere to eat in the morning and ended up in McDonalds as it was the only one actually open during breakfast hours and serving food. The only thing we could think to explain this is that most Japanese people must eat at home before going into town so there is no demand for local restaurants serving this meal. Having had this experience, any time I arrive at a hotel here one of the things I look out for is a local restaurant that serves breakfast. The breakfast served at a neighbouring Tully’s Coffee shop for the hotel (at extra charge) is western style and not terribly attractive so we have been forced to look further away but as we are in the middle of the city it is not too difficult with an abundance of Japanese fast food chains that, thankfully, appear to offer breakfasts. In Kyoto we have already tried two of the biggest Japanese chains: Sukiya and Yoshinoya, however, we noticed a shop only a few doors down for the restaurant that is even open 24 hours that we decided to give a try today! Yayoiken (https://www.yayoiken.com/).

The medium-sized café/restaurant is quite comfortable with small tables throughout. We ordered our food from a computer inside the door that luckily had an English language option. It gave us a slip of paper for each of our dishes which were then exchanged by the staff for our food.

The serving lady showed us to a small table just inside the door, had a look at our tickets then came back shortly with our drinks: A coffee for Mel and an orange juice for me (not fresh, but ok; 150 yen each).

A short time later our meals arrived: Mel had the fried chicken (kareage) meal (790 yen) and I had the potato croquette meal (790 yen also). Both of these came with the ubiquitous shredded cabbage salad (with lovely dressing), a bowl of rice, a bowl of miso and, unusually, a small bowl containing a rectangle of tofu.

It was probably our best breakfast yet here at just under 2,000 yen, very fresh and the server was so friendly even offering me more rice when she saw my bowl was empty. It was a fast food meal but with the feel of a relaxed café. Wish we had tried it earlier in our stay as we would have eaten breakfast here every day. In fact their dinners look good as well…

As for our destination for today, let me take you back about 100 years where two Kyoto University professors would follow a beautiful walk along a cherry-tree lined 1.8 kilometre canal (“Lake Biwa Canal”) in quiet north-eastern Kyoto at the base of the mountain range surrounding the city. A short distance from their path there are a number of old shrines and temples making it a very tranquil and peaceful area with very little traffic and lots of beautiful nature. The short path is now known as “The Philosopher’s Walk” (or “The Falafel Walk” as I have often punned) and I have found it to be one of the most wonderful places in the country…though it can get quite busy.

Getting to “The Philosopher's Path” required us to take a subway to just north of the Imperial Palace where we had to catch a bus (206) to the northern end of the path. Leaving the subway station for some reason I got my bearings all messed up and initially went to the wrong side of the street (south) to catch the bus but eventually we found the correct spot (on the north side) and were shortly on our way. I had used Google Maps to find us a route but it had pointed us to taking a tourist “hop on/hop off” bus around the corner but neither of us were interested in this today so instead we opted for the local bus (we are getting better at this) for a likely much more reasonable 220 yen charge.

There is no real transport right to the path so we had to get out a few streets away and walk on a stone path beside a small canal lined with cherry blossom trees that were actually starting to bloom. Obviously freaks of nature.

Continuing towards the mountains the busy road turned into a narrow road just at the point the Philosopher’s Path starts off to the right.

Here there were a lot more people, many walking up the hill past the shops along the road to a famous local Buddhist temple: Higashiyama Jisho-ji. The road to the temple there are a number of shops selling all sorts of things, mostly to do with food or religion.

At one shop we saw an older lady in the window preparing a traditional Kyoto snack: “Yatsuhashi” which are small rectangular pieces of cinnamon-flavoured rice flour pastry. Here they were cooking the pastry but it is also served raw (“Nama Yatsuhashi”) where it is folded into a triangular parcel with sweet beans in the middle to form sort of a raw ravioli. They were cooking the pastry here where it was pressed on a griddle by a piece of wood then when cooked it was being draped over a rod to form their distinctive curved shape. They are quite crunchy and thin - Very delicious.

At the top of the road is the entrance to the temple where we paid 400 yen each (which I thought was a bit pricey) to visit the grounds.

Just inside the gate there are several iconic stone gardens beside several of the temple buildings where the stone/soil is formed into shapes, one the shape of Mount Fuji (with the top cut-off) and another was a raised bed that followed the shape of the space with perfect diagonal lines decorating the surface.

Beyond is a traditional Japanese rock garden with ponds and trees looking very natural and extraordinarily pretty.

The temple is just at the base of the mountain so much of the gardens lead up onto the mountain, where you follow a marked stone paved trail.

The beautiful trees grow out of a green carpet of moss and as you climb up higher you can take in the views of Kyoto below. Everywhere you look there are tourists, sorry, I mean beautiful views…with tourists taking pictures of them. Yes, it was quite busy but we were able to take in magnificence of the place.

The trail ends near the entrance at a temple building on the edge of the decorative pond. A brief stop at the (yes, busy) toilets and we were on our way.

Leaving the temple we continued back towards the “Philosopher's Path” passing by a shop selling cream puffs and another selling various forms of strawberries: On a stick, a small cone of rice….It was nice to see that many of the visitors to the area are not just foreigners but there are a large number of Japanese as well. This is a place where everyone wants to visit.

We turned onto the Philosopher’s Path along the side of the narrow stone-lined canal. The cherry blossom trees are on both sides of the canal with houses and small shops. Occasionally there are small bridges to take you from one side to the other. Some of the trees were starting to bloom adding a dramatic splash of white and light pink to the grey branches of the trees.

We turned off the path for our next stop and passed by a tree in full bloom beside a house and threatening the overhead power wires.

A small residential road lined with quiet wooden houses led us up the side of the mountain where we noticed signs about not feeding the monkeys which made Mel a bit excited as she loves all animals but particularly monkeys. Unfortunately, we never did see them.

Continuing on we arrived at the stone steps leading off the road up to the main flight of steps through the forest to the main thatched entrance of “Hōnenin Temple”.

Passing through the gate (this small Buddhist temple is free to visit) there were two rectangular beds of sculpted sand. Though not as large as the sand garden sculptures in the previous temple, these were still quite impressively decorated.

We walked along the stone path through the gardens around the randomly arranged temple buildings. There was another decorative pond here with carefully arranged stones and trees growing out from a carpet of rich, green moss. The roots of many of the trees are exposed in an intricate, spaghetti-like display on top of the moss. Off to the side of the path there are smaller shrines and temple buildings. Everything is impeccably maintained and spotlessly clean.

Leaving the temple building, we had noticed on the way into the temple the numerous tall sticks with black lettering of a small cemetery off to our right so we decided to now have a bit of a wander. The gravestones are all so perfectly cut and prepared. Many of which have offerings placed at their base, obviously regularly visited and taken care of. Here with the serenity of the surrounding forest and away from the city, it is a quiet and peaceful place.

Continuing along the back street we came across another small Buddhist temple, Anraku-ji but walking up the steps to the gate and looking through, it seemed quite small and uninteresting so we gave it a miss.

A bit further along the road where there was a large sign outside what turns out to be not only a Buddhist temple but also a nunnery: “Reikan-Ji: The Camellia Temple”, “March 20 to April 7”, “10:00 to 16:30 daily”. It was more expensive than the first temple we visited at 800 yen but we decided to visit anyway since it looked interesting. A bit of research online shows that Reikan-Ji is only open a few days every year when their camellia bushes are in bloom so we were lucky to be around one of those few days.

The walled grounds of Reikan-ji are quite small with a number of small buildings amongst the rather extensive but crowded gardens featuring a large number of camellia bushes in various shades of red and pink. We first passed a small tatami-carpeted temple building with a lovely large, shallow rectangular pool of water with camellia blooms floating in it with two green bamboo poles beside with blooms coming out of holes in them as well.

Continuing past the building was a lovely hilly, rock garden with monuments and trees sticking out of the green moss surface. The narrow, winding path through the grounds took us up and around the small buildings in the complex with many camellia blooms in the bushes and on the ground. Though busy everyone was simply taking it in or, more often than not, taking pictures. We were often waiting for someone ahead to finish their pictures before we could move. No one was in a hurry so we just took the time to appreciate our surroundings as we waited.

The temple buildings have one of the interesting roof down-spouts we have seen on buildings in Japan - a chain of small metal buckets that must make the water running down look very pretty.

At the end of the walk through the gardens we were allowed to enter one of the temple buildings after removing our shoes where the modest interior was simply decorated (though no pictures allowed).

Returning down the hill from the temple we once again joined the Philosopher’s Path where we passed more cherry blossom trees just starting to bloom and some very much in full bloom though I suspect it was nothing like it would be in a week or so when every tree was out.

There were a few artists out selling their work and, indeed, making more of it on the spot. A lady was selling small hand-painted cards that she made on a make-shift laptop easel with an assortment of small paintbrushes and paint on a cloth rag in front of her. Later a man sitting on a bridge over the canal was making a pencil drawing of the scenery.

Despite the path being busy, it was a relaxed sort of busy with everyone one quite quiet, simply enjoying the weather (by now sunny) and beautiful scenery including views over the rooftops of Kyoto. There are no big roads anywhere nearby and we never saw a car drive by on the small residential streets. The one thing we did take note of are the overhead electrical wires everywhere. We are so used to not seeing them as they are buried in the ground but here they link all of the houses, old and new, to the grid.

Seeing a small café advertising ice cream we stopped for a few minutes. Inside there were a number of tables free but after buying our ice cream we were (politely) informed that they were for people eating food or drinking tea and NOT for ice cream people such as ourselves. So, we found a spot outside to stop for a few minutes to eat before continuing on our way.

Sadly, the path, canal and cherry blossom trees ended after another kilometre so we walked down a wider residential road and around the corner to another, much larger (the biggest we visited on our whole trip), Buddhist temple “Eikando”, again nestled against the side of the mountains. Entrance cost 500 yen and it was well worth it.

A wide sidewalk took us through the imposing front gate then past a temple building on our left and a low wall on our right up to another gate leading into the main part of the complex (with a convenient toilet block as we entered).

At the front of the main building we were invited to take off our shoes and walk around the buildings. Most of the floors were wood and it did get a bit cold on the feet after a while but it was well worth it as we followed the walkways from building to building with many beautiful gardens with more rocks, water and trees.

I stopped for a few minutes to appreciate a raked-rock bed in the middle of one of the bigger gardens. So peaceful often with only the sound of a tourist shuffling by or a bird song or perhaps only the rustling of the trees. While sitting there we could hear chanting from the monks in the building behind us with the periodic punctuation of a drum.

A peek through a crack between the wall panels showed monks dressing themselves for their afternoon prayers. This chanting would follow us throughout our visit as we followed along the crooked dark wooden, covered, walkways from building to building.

Climbing a covered wooden staircase up the side of the mountain to a small shrine - the “Tohoto Pagoda” - looking out over the hodgepodge collection of grey tiled roofs covering the temple buildings to the city beyond and the mountain range on the far side of that.

Incidentally, at the bottom of this staircase there is a small well that used to have a lovely “water chime” that I created a video of many years ago (see https://youtu.be/4KyGxCZKVzk) but, sadly, it is now simply a well with no chiming in evidence.

When we got to the main shrine - “Zenrinjimikagedo” - we were delighted to find inside a number of apprentice monks doing their daily chants, having their posture calmly and precisely corrected by the senior monks. All monks were in their simple kimonos seated on top of a cushion on the tatami matted floor. A number of visitors sat on benches respectfully taking it all in. It was quite magical and, yes, mesmerising. The building containing the main shrine is more ornate than the rest not only with the highly decorative interior but even the outside wooden walkways which have orange painted ceilings with the tops of the posts having elaborately painted decorations.

Our feet were getting cold as we returned along the walkways back to the main entrance to retrieve our shoes. Feet happier, we continued to the far side of the past the decorative “Hojo Pond” (complete with small island and bridge) to a small but highly decorated building at the top of a steep staircase with, wouldn’t you know it, a cherry blossom tree in full bloom behind it.

Beside this is a small graveyard and beside that there is a small lovely waterfall and stream leading to the pond then a fence separating the grounds from a nursery school next door.

We left the temple behind, well after the 4 pm closing time (no one seemed to mind). A wonderful visit with the magic of hearing the monks. It was time to head home with the rest of the temples having closed their doors already. Mr Google was our friend, offering a helpful path back to the hotel. We first followed a pebble path alongside a small canal behind residential houses. There were some cherry blossom trees in bloom here but other than that the only company we had was the occasional dog walker or local returning home.

Returning to the city streets we passed through a big junction over an set of old (unused) train tracks running alongside another small canal. This is the “Keage Incline”, a 582 metre walkway where visitors can take in the sight of cherry blossom trees running alongside. There were a number of people doing this now including a small group of traditionally costumed singers.

Across the road we had missed what looks to have been an American-food themed festival at the “Kyoto International Community House”. They were packing up their inflatable “wibbbly-wobbly” man (you know the thing you see at some car dealerships - a long skinny human figure with arms that go all over the place) and their tents for the day.

I made an effort to deviate a bit from Mr. Google’s directions to walk through more of the Gion district, this time the northern section which we had not visited the other day. Many of the houses around the area are quiet modern in appearance but still small and crowded in close to one another (needless to say, everything is spotless).

After a few mistakes in navigation (serves me right for deviating from Mr Google) we ended up where I wanted to be at a famous junction in the heart of the Gion district…along with, it seems, half the population of the city, all wanting to capture a glimpse of a geisha though, truth be told, there may have been many but with this many people you probably would miss them! This is the corner of Shinbashi-Dori and the Shirakawa Canal (yes, lined with more cherry blossom trees and, yes, there were some blooms out) where there is a small shrine (“Tatsumi-jinja”).

The stone-paved Shinbashi-Dori has a number of traditional geisha houses - Dark wood-clad buildings with modest entrances.

We followed the road to where it meets a larger road running north-south “Yamatoooji-Dori” which we turned left onto then to the main road through the centre of Kyoto on which our hotel is located a mile or so to the west.

Mel had to stop at a rather garishly decorated (tourist) restaurant to have her picture taken as a geisha…

Leaving Gion behind we reached the river and decided to have a bit of a rest after a lot of walking. On the west side of the bridge we took the stairs to the edge of the river and sat for a few minutes on the grass. We were not the only ones with groups of people doing the same thing all around us in various degrees of relaxation - Sitting, laying, sleeping, eating…As we sat there we watched a heron on the far side of the river doing some fishing, yes, in the middle of the city.

As the sun started setting and lights of the city started coming on we figured it was about time to eat. I have always been attracted to “Pontocho”, a narrow alley running behind the buildings lining the river with its many places to eat and drink. On previous visits I have never been able to find something suitable with most simply too expensive for what they offered, only for drinking or others serving food I was not interested in (we wanted Japanese, not burgers!). This was true this time as well as we walked along the alley seeing if we could find something to eat.

It is a wonderful alley with loads of ambiance particularly at night with small lanterns lighting up the confined space with the dark black-coloured walls on either side. The signs here are very understated in keeping with the space. It was very crowded with others doing what we were doing.

Passing a small school and basketball court we were just about to give up when Mel spotted a small door in the wall with some signs stuck to the wall beside it: “Kyoto Ramen” (in the books as “Kyo-Ramen”) “Japanese Kyoto original Ramen, The third-generation, Since 1966.” Perfect.

We happened to arrive just as the owner (and operator and chef) opened the narrow door into his shop. There are a couple of 2-seat tables on the right then a larger 4-seat at the back. To the left are four stools set up against a bar area behind which the owner prepares the food. Yes, it is very small. There were rather tacky tourist pictures on the wall along with pictures of menu items pinned alongside the tables as well as notices such as “cash only” and “no pictures” and “cancellation after ordering is not possible”, etc. We were told not to take pictures but we did anyway though carefully without the owner in them.

I had a cold tea (meh - not a fan, give it to me hot please - I had ordered “o-cha” and evidently this is what passes for “tea” in this shop with no choice in temperature offered) and Mel, unusually, had a beer while we waited for our two “original” ramen bowls were prepared. After a few minutes of bashing bowls around we were served our noodle soups: Thick noodles in a light brown (soy sauce) broth topped with spring onions, fresh herbs, a piece of seaweed and a small round of roasted pork. Absolutely sensational. Delicate flavours and perfectly al dente noodles.

Just after we arrived three people came in to take the table at the back. A few minutes later a lady came in and (in English) asked if she could make a reservation and was told “no” but, seeing a table free behind her, asked if she could have it now and was told “yes”. All excited, she returned to the street to grab her husband and had a seat. She explained to us that she has been trying all week to get into the restaurant but every time she walks by it has the “full” sign on the door and there is a queue on the opposite side of the alley of people waiting to get in.

Luckily we had enough cash to pay for the meal (though we were cleaned out) as we left, satisfied, back into the narrow alley. Taking a small side alley we walked along two streets - “Kiyamachine-dori” and “Nishi-Kimachie-dori Street” running along either side of a wide canal, the “Takase River”. On the outsides of the streets are loads more restaurants while the canal is lined with yet more cherry blossom trees with the occasional bridge.

At one point there is a small, narrow, island in the middle of the canal with a couple of restaurants on them (one is a nice Vietnamese BBQ place I visited with my mother a few years ago). In the shallow water beside this we happened to spot, only a few meters from where we stood, another heron trying very hard not to be noticed by both people and his potential dinner at his feet. Perhaps the same heron trying his luck here?

We were not in a particular hurry to get back to the hotel as this was our last night. We stopped in one of the covered markets where we were stopped by the rather nice looking “Koé Donuts” shop where we picked up some rather pricey (but delicious) donuts laid out on trays for you to select from - A plain (204 yen; “Chokoeda”), a cinnamon (223), strawberry (260) and chocolate (260) for 1,022 yen. Of course, we were out of cash so had to pay by plastic but we picked up another 10,000 yen (110 yen ATM fee) at a 7-11 where Mel also picked up another (frozen) soft chocolate ice cream waffle cone (248 yen) and I got two boxes of Japanese “curry sauce cubes” (138 yen and 240 yen) to take home with us.

Mel also could not help but have one final look in the window of the pet adoption shop where there were two kittens.

We returned to the hotel via the side entrance off the alley and packed while watching Lupin 3 (Japanese animation) and an old episode of Knight Rider, yes, both only in Japanese. The suitcases are very full but I am sure we are well under our weight limit.

We are really tired after a LONG day of walking. It seems like we only just got here yet thinking back we have done so much it seems like we have also been here a long time. Weird.

 

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